But it's not something you blindly want to set to some value. It does similar things to what Fuji does with it's dr100, dr200, and dr400 setting (basically tries to recover dynamic range). You might want to fiddle with the dynamic range slider in the filmic module. And there are of course many that actually prefer the look produced by those cameras. Canon and Sony have found out the hard way given their progress on color handling with recent models. It's basically their secret sauce and not exactly easy to imitate which I'm sure is something that e.g. What Fuji does is perfectly valid and their in camera processing is one of their flag ship features that is appreciated by many people. Most people that use a raw editor do so because they want to be in full control of these creative choices instead of having some arbitrary choices imposed by the manufacturer. No product exists on the market that does that. Is it going to be pixel for pixel exactly the same as what your Fuji does? No of course not. Or set up a profile so you can apply it with one mouse click. So, play with the LUT module, pick a look you like and auto apply that on import. You also get a lot of control over what it does on import in Darktable so if you don't like it, you can actually tune it. What is a goal is having some sane defaults to ensure the imported photo looks ok-ish and minimize the amount of work you do for processing. is simply not a goal for developers and most users. Exactly matching proprietary creative choices made by Fuji, Canon, Nikon, Sony, etc. The whole point of a raw editor is to give you some alternative to that and more creative freedom. The short version of this is that if you are happy with the in device processing, you should just use that. Personally, I don't tend to be interested in emulating the look of particular film brands.Īurelien Pierre (Darktable developer) has some nice rants on this topic (one of his recent videos). And of course the velvia plugin actually tries to emulate that look.Įither way, I'd still recommend the above settings as a baselin before you apply any of that. The color balance module also has a few presets. Also the new color calibration module has a few presets for BW film (including a Fuji one). The LUT plugin is the obvious one as u/Neither-Welder5001 suggested. If you want to play with film simulations there are several options. Together with the new color calibration module, you can get a pretty nice look just importing photos. This is also a great way to quickly fix exposure issues in general. Aurelien Pierre actually suggested this in one of his youtube tutorials as appropriate for Fuji.įilmic ensures that the white point won't actually clip all this does is move the grey point. But 1.25 is about right for a normally exposed image. I also set modern as the option for chromatic adaptations (turns on the new color calibration module).įuji has a tendency to slightly underexpose so sometimes I have to push it further than 1.25. I've selected scene-referred as the workflow default under processing in the settings. I have this as a preset that applies to any Fuji photos. display referred), you may want to set exposure to 1.25, which is a bit higher than the default 0.5. filmic + exposure instead of basecurve (aka. If you use scene referred mode (which you should consider), i.e. I have a Fuji X-T30 and I've been processing mostly with Darktable in the last year. This will open on the current window without the usual small chat window :: For in-depth information, please check the screencasts wiki. New to darktable and not sure where to start? These links may be of help. Possible Bug wiki | FAQ | Resources Official darktable □ darktable links An Unofficial place for questions, discussions, tutorials, workflows and possible bug discussions about darktable.
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